Archive | March, 2020

SaigonSighs18 – are you reelin’ in the years, stowin’ away the time?

26 Mar
Hand winching a small fishing boat

Fish sauce – Been around in South East Asia / China for about 2000 years in some form or other. Phu Quoc Island is famous for it’s production, especially the small coastal village of Han Ninh

Ham Ninh – The Anchovies found around the coast of Phu Quoc Island are a separate and different sub-species having a longer lower jaw.

It is produced by fermenting vast amounts of Anchovies and brine for up to two years in large wooden vats made from coconut wood and bound with girdles of stout braided vines. These act in the same manner as the steel banding used in barrel making in the UK. I have no idea how they join/make the vines to exactly the correct dimensions to compress the wood together.

The quality of the Fish sauce is simply measured by the amount of dilution. It’s almost impossible to obtain a 100% sauce but the higher quality sauces are used for dips whereas the lower quality is used for cooking. A bit like Olive Oil.

Traditional industries are rapidly being displaced by tourism. Here is a huge modern Hotel in the main town of Duong Dong which is meant to look like an ocean liner- a cruise ship – which to be honest always look ugly anyway, they always look top heavy as they cram more and more decks on top!
A better view of Phu Quoc
‘For those in peril on the sea’
A traditional fishing boat leaves Duong Dong harbour. Most fishing takes place at night and the boats are adorned with dozens of lights to attract the fish.
Fishing just off the beach for tiny fish

I am currently reading a book about laos, in particular an area in the North of Laos called ‘The Plain of Jars’ which is a flat area surrounded by beautiful mountains. On this plain are many huge stone jars which were deemed to be funeral earns but no one knows who made them. During the American/Vietnam war the area fell under the control of the ‘Pathet Laos’ a Socialist / Communist group with close ties to Ho Chi Minh and the Vietminh. The Pathet Laos were funded and supplied by Chairman Mao in China. During the years 1964 to 1969 Laos became the most heavily bombed country in the world, because the infamous Ho Chi Minh Trail ran through it. Or possibly, as one Senior American Military Officer said after LBJ had stopped the bombing of North Vietnam. ‘We had all these planes with nothing to do.’ The total tonnage of bombs dropped on the plain of jars, this simple agricultural society, exceeded the entire amount dropped by the allies during WW11. One can only assume that they had formed the mindset that all occupants of that area were potential enemy.

The bombing was totally illegal as Laos was officially a neutral country. America did not disclose it had bombed Laos until the early seventies, even then it insisted they had only targeted military targets

Thousands of Laos peasants were literally blown to pieces, shot from gunships, peppered with cluster bombs or burnt to death with white phosphorous / Napalm.

To end on a lighter note, here we have a Vietnamese Articulated —– errrrr–motorbike! No reversing skills required.

Love and peace John (Always look on the bright side of life!)

SaigonSighs17 – Range Rovers are for wimps!

19 Mar
Think it means it’s “Off the Road” cause the handbrake doesn’t work, hence the rock under the front wheel! Not sure what it’s original incarnation was, maybe a Polski – Fiat or even an early Kia? Open to suggestions!
Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers.
A peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked.
If Peter Piper picked a peck of pickled peppers,
Where’s the peck of pickled peppers Peter Piper picked?

Working women gathering before going to work picking peppers.
Note – There are no men!
Drying and sorting Peppers
Sometimes (not often) the French get things so right!
Whereas the Vietnamese ???????
Sometimes get it wrong!
This is the Phu Quoc Bee farm, a beautiful quiet place set in a small tropical garden where you can sample and buy all Bee related products, sit down. drink a cocktail and listen to the guy tell you all about the honey process and how beneficial honey is.
The honey is expensive – about £20.00 for 4 bottles
But
You can actually smell and taste ‘flowers’ in the honey!
The only thing is!

I’ve visited many times to buy honey!

I’ve never seen a bee!
And finally!

This is a wooden dragon fly or may be a damsel fly. It is made of a very light wood such as Balsa.

It is so well balanced that it will pivot on the sharp ‘beak’, will move with air flow but not fall and if you move your finger about it remains stable.

AMAZING!

Really annoying word of the week. “TO——TALLY”

Spoken by extending the first syllable to emphasise your emotion.

SaigonSighs16 – Snakes alive! Actually No!

12 Mar
This is, or was, a Monocled Cobra a highly prolific venomous snake found all over South East Asia. It was caught, along with others in the scrub-land /jungle behind the family house on Phu Quoc Island by the ‘Snake Man’ I’ve no idea how he catches them
BUT
He has in his back pocket a piece of paper. This paper has been handed down father to son over many generations and has magical powers to protect the snake catcher from the snake! The snake will be under his control!
Presumably it was written / created , no doubt at a cost, by some long dead witchdoctor/shaman. The man wouldn’t show me the paper, fearful it’s powers would be destroyed.
Though dead, the cobra appears to have it’s hood extended. This is achieved by forcing an appropriately shaped piece of plastic cut from a bottle, down the dead snakes throat.
The snakes fate? It will spend snake eternity in a large glass bottle immersed in a not very nice Vietnamese rice wine. Drink the wine and you can shag all night and have many children!
BUT
It’s expensive!

Don’t dig there, dig it elsewhere.You’re digging it round and it ought to be square.The shape of it’s wrong, it’s much too long,And you can’t put a hole where a hole don’t belong. Bernard Cribbins 1962 – and that’s that!

In the north of the island is a massive new resort complex called VINPEARL It has five star accommodation and every amusement you can think of plus a tropical sea to play in. The VIN group is engaged in every form of commerce in Vietnam culminating in the production of Vietnam’s first home produced cars called VINFAST. (They look very good). The same company also produces a very nice electric motor scooter. The road between the main town of Duong Dong and VinPearl is currently being upgraded with lights and proper flood drains so there’s a lot of digging going on.

Up a bit, right a bit, down a bit, STOP!
‘Elf an Safety! – well he has got a reflective top on!

Along this road is the entrance to a brand new very big Movenpick five star hotel, a year ago the directions would be – turn left just after the huge land fill site which is now a mountain of rubbish so bad that they tried to obscure it with high green metal sheets, was a haven for insects and smelt awful – Miraculously this has now disappeared.

Happy ‘Helpers’ for the roadworks
A visit to the ‘Digger Dentist’ for some new teeth.
No anaesthetic required!
“T – reelocation”

Really annoying – “Upspeak”

Practised by super-cool young-ish academics with muscles (and maybe a tattoo) being interviewed as experts on the TV. Speech cadences are deliberately raised at the end of sentences. In effect making every sentence a question.

Try it – Boris Johnson is very intelligent.

And finally tin hut homes reflecting in the calm lagoon. Guess where the toilets are?
Love and peace John

SaigonSighs 15. Coconut Prison, Phu Quoc – caution- images of lifesize dolls that depict human suffering.

6 Mar
All along the watch tower but alas not by Jimi Hendrix

The prison was established in 1949 by the French to incarcerate anti-colonial dissidents. It’s equivalent in Ha Noi was the infamous ‘Hoa Lo’ Prison which later became the notorious ‘La Maison Central’ whose most famous prisoner was the Airman John McCain. During the ‘American’ war Coconut Prison was used to house communist fighters, sympathisers and political prisoners. It was synonymous with torture and death.

Barbed wire ‘Tiger Cages’ used as a punishment. The occupants were exposed to blistering sun and cold nights.

Many forms of torture were used, here we see the burning of genitalia. Other forms were the use of rusty nails hammered into bones or skulls, electric shocks, waterboarding, crushing the body with huge wooden planks, boiling in a large bowl and simple beatings.
The dogs are ‘Phu Quoc dogs. When they were originally discovered it was thought that they might actually be a sub-species of dog as they have webbing between the toes that allows them to swim very well and kidneys that can tolerate drinking sea water. Later the notion was discounted.

And now for something ‘lighter’

According to the Complete Annals of Đại Việt (the bible of Vietnamese history), the custom of painting eyes on the boats started during the reign of Hùng Vương (2879 – 258 BCE).  When diving fishermen complained of being attacked by crocodiles, the Hùng King suggested that they tattoo their bodies with fish scales and paint the boats with fish eyes. This was to fool the predators into thinking that the fishermen and the boats were fish and parts of sea life instead of the invaders of their environment.

‘Resting’ work boats

Most annoying phrase – “It’s gone viral” – when I was a kid Virol was a thick sweet malt extract / olive oil ‘gloop’ for kids. I was given a spoonful everyday.

Disadvantages – rotted your teeth, made you fat, made you totally incompetent at all sports or any kind of physical activity.

Advantages – immortality!

Food allergies hadn’t been invented then!
“The shadows dripped from the trees” – T. E. Lawrence – not me!
Love and peace – John